Expert Advice - Tips for buying a shotgun

When selecting a shotgun, be sure it fits you. Primary considerations... Purpose (hunting or targets), Gauge, Choke, Barrel length,  Stock length, LOP (length of pull- a measurement in inches between the trigger and butt). Not to worry about all this, you'll know if it fits when it feels comfortable in the shooting position. You can shoot anything with any gun, but the best gauge for hunting / skeet is 20 or 12 gauge. For Trap it's 12 gauge. For Gun Terms, go to http://fieldandclays.com/Home.htm... look in the left border then click on "Gun terms." To begin your journey, it is probably best to buy used. Guns maintain value so when you're ready to upgrade you have a piece with which to negotiate. And, remember when first buying, it's generally a negotiation. Used guns can be found at local clubs and stores. Of course, if you are experienced, buying new prevents any flaws caused by a previous owner.

When buying a shotgun, there are many different factors to consider. Gauge, size, type and brand to name a few, but one of the first things you must consider is what type of shotgun is best for you. There are four basic types of shotguns, all of which accomplish the same goal which I have briefly described below. Each type has its own pros and cons; you must carefully consider each type and what the gun will be used for.

A single shot shotgun is a gun that only holds one shell at a time. They are typically the least expensive type of shotgun available, mainly because you only get one shot before you have to open the breach and reload a new shell before it may be fired again. These types of guns are great for the inexperienced or youth as they tend to be safer with only one shot at a time.

Pump-action shotguns are the most common type of shotgun, they are reliable and typically on the lower end of the price range. These guns hold multiple shells and require you to pump the forend after each shot to eject the spent shell and load a new shell.

Auto-Loader - These guns are also known as semi-automatics and use a variety of different automatic systems to eject the spent shell and load a new shell with only the pull of the trigger. This type of shotgun also tends to have less recoil (about 30% less) due to the automatic cycling action absorbing some of the recoil. Automatic loading shotguns generally are more expensive than pump-action and depending on the quality of the gun, they can be as reliable as a pump-action.

Double Barrel - A double barrel shotgun is a gun that only holds two shells at a time and can be found in one of two styles; over/under or side-by-side. One of the main advantages of a double barrel is that a hunter or shooter can insert a different choke into each barrel; this increases the chance of a successful shot which can depend on the distance of the target. Due to reliability and usability, double barrel shotguns tend to be the most expensive of all the shotgun types. Magazine fed guns need about 3 extra inches of barrel to allow for the action cycling of the gun which makes the barrel of a double barrel shotgun shorter and lighter. These guns are usually well balanced and swing effortlessly with a natural feel to them. Without a place to hide, a shell can be seen at a quick glance, making this gun type one of the safest. Due to the fact that the barrel is not connected to the firing action, double barrel guns may be broken open when you're carrying your gun around camp or to your hunting spot without the chance of an accidental discharge.

Here are some utube  videos  about different styles of shotguns http://www.google.com/search?q=types+of+shotguns&hl=en&rlz=1W1ADBR_en&prmd=iv&source=univ&tbs=vid:1&tbo=u&ei=OgORTOioMJTNngf35bS0DA&sa=X&oi=video_result_group&ct=title&resnum=14&sqi=2&ved=0CFEQqwQwDQ

The seven steps of operation of any firearm (rifle, shotgun, or pistol) are the same. The purpose of the action (mechanism) of any gun is to perform these seven steps. All actions accomplish the following steps of operation either mechanically or by hand, although not necessarily in this order:

1. FIRING--pulling the trigger releases the hammer or striker and fires the shell in the chamber.

2. UNLOCKING & PRIMARY EXTRACTION--the breech is securely locked closed during firing; after firing, the first operation is to unlock it. Autoloaders do this by means of gas pressure and an operating rod, other actions do this by manual movement of a bolt handle, slide handle, etc. In addition, the case left behind after the shot charge, wad, and powder are gone must be loosened from the chamber walls--this is called primary extraction, and it is accomplished mechanically as the action is unlocked.

3. EXTRACTION--the case is partially or fully removed from the chamber.

4. EJECTION--after extraction the case is removed from the gun; it is either lifted out by hand or thrown out by the ejector.

5. COCKING--The hammer or striker spring is compressed as the hammer/striker is drawn back, and then held back by the sear; it is now cocked.

6. FEEDING--a fresh cartridge is chambered, either by hand, or by the forward travel of the breech-block (bolt).

7. LOCKING--The breech-block is locked closed, and the gun is ready to fire again.

Specifically how these seven steps of operation are accomplished, and in what order, depends upon the type of action. I am not going to attempt to detail how each action accomplishes these steps; it is sufficient to understand that it does. If you carefully watch a shotgun mechanism operate, you will see how it performs the seven steps.

The shotgun actions I am going to cover in this article are the autoloading action, the pump action, and the break action (single shot and double barrel). These are the action types that the vast majority of modern shotguns employ. I will try to briefly point out the advantages and disadvantages of each type, and mention some of the best known shotguns that employ each type of action.

There are other shotgun types that I will not touch on here, such as the unusual Darne sliding block action or the inexpensive bolt action. But these types represent only a small percentage of shotgun sales. The latter works like a bolt action rifle--see my article The Bolt Action in the "Rifle Information" section of my Guns & Shooting Page for more information.

The autoloader

Remington Model 1100. Illustration courtesy of Remington Arms Co.

Long recoil operated, short recoil operated, and gas operated autoloading actions were all devised by John Browning, and the firm that bears his name has made all three types. The most famous long recoil action is the Browning Auto-5. This same design has been produced by Remington (as the famous Model 11), Savage, and others. All of these guns can be easily recognized by the familiar "square back" receiver.

A long recoil action uses the force of recoil to achieve the seven steps of operation. It requires the barrel and bolt (locked together) to travel rearward for a distance somewhat greater than the full length of the fired cartridge before coming to a stop so that the fired shell may be extracted and ejected. Then the barrel unlocks from the bolt and returns to battery, followed a little later by the bolt, which strips a fresh shell from the magazine and chambers it as it returns to battery. Springs, compressed on the rearward movement, power the return to battery of the barrel and bolt. The jolt caused by the heavy barrel/bolt assembly reaching the end of its rearward travel immediately after the recoil caused by the firing of the cartridge gives the long recoil gun a peculiar "double shuffle" kick, which some shooters find disconcerting.

The short recoil shotgun also uses recoil energy for power, but the barrel and bolt are only locked together for a short distance, usually less than 1/2 inch. Then the two are separated and the barrel returned to battery by a spring while the bolt continues rearward to eject the fired case. At the end of its travel the bolt is forced forward (by another spring) and it strips a fresh round from the magazine and chambers it as it returns to battery.

The Browning Double Automatic was an interesting example of a short recoil operated shotgun. Most autoloading pistols also operate on the short recoil principle, and this is where the system has found its most common application.

The gas operated autoloading shotgun uses the power of the expanding gas from the power charge to operate the action. It works in a similar manner to the gas operated autoloading rifle, so for a more detailed description of this action I will simply refer you to my article The Autoloading Action in the "Rifle Information" section of my Guns & Shooting Page.

Probably the best-known gas operated shotgun ever made, and typical of the type, is the Remington Model 1100. This benchmark design has influenced the great majority of subsequent autoloaders. It has proven to be a reliable gun that significantly reduces perceived recoil. As I write this in 2007 the 1100 is still in production. Gas operated autoloaders are offered by most manufacturers of repeating shotguns.

Autoloaders are very popular for the various clay target sports and also for hunting. They offer reduced perceived recoil (about 30%, due to the energy absorbed in operating their action) and a quick, almost effortless, second or third shot. This reduced recoil is particularly advantageous for trap and skeet shooters, who may shoot hundreds of rounds a day. It is also pretty important to the waterfowl hunter shooting magnum loads.

Autoloaders are a little more expensive than an equivalent pump gun, but much cheaper to manufacture and sell than a decent double gun. The shooter wishing to increase the versatility of his or her autoloader can purchase a second barrel of different configuration at a reasonable price. Barrels can usually be interchanged in minutes without tools. Today, at least in North America, autoloaders are probably the best selling type of shotgun.

Autoloaders generally require more maintenance than other types. Without it they are apt to become less reliable than a manually operated action, particularly in very cold weather. They must be kept clean and should be inspected for proper adjustment and worn parts on a regular basis. Other shotgun types will run practically forever if you merely swab out the chamber and bore and wipe down the outside of the gun with a silicone cloth. This is not true of autoloaders, and particularly gas operated autoloaders.

The primary disadvantage of the autoloading shotgun, besides increased maintenance, relates to the length of the receiver necessary to contain its action. This long receiver between the barrel and butt stock makes an autoloader about 4" longer than a break action gun with the same length barrel. Autos tend to be muzzle heavy and slow to swing with a barrel longer than 26" in length. This is a disadvantage shared with the pump gun (see below).

Some shooters find the automatic operation of the action between shots distracting, especially when shooting clay target doubles. Some autos tend to be fussy about ammunition; they will often fail to eject light loads, and sometimes fail to feed heavy loads.

Reloaders dislike the fact that autos throw the fired shell on the ground. Some autoloaders also tend to be sensitive to reloads, and will only operate with reloaded shells previously fired in their chamber. This can be a pain in the neck for the reloader that owns more than one shotgun.

Most experienced shooters consider autoloaders the most dangerous type of shotgun in the hands of a careless or ignorant shooter. Because, after the first shot, it is ready to shoot again with no action required by the shooter beyond pulling the trigger. This is, of course, also true for a double gun with a single trigger. Safety is really an operator problem, as the autoloader is as safe as any other repeater when used correctly. Careless individuals are dangerous to themselves and others with any sort of gun, and also around motor vehicles, boats, aircraft, power tools, matches, propane stoves and lanterns, machinery of all kinds, and electricity. They should be studiously avoided.

The Pump

Remington Model 870. Illustration courtesy of Remington Arms Co.

The pump action is cycled by "pumping" the forearm after a shot is fired. The forearm is connected to the breech-bolt by rods called "action bars." These cause the bolt to move with the forearm, performing the seven steps of operation. There are two motions to pumping a shotgun. First the forearm is pulled straight to the rear. This initially unlocks the bolt, then extracts and ejects the fired shell as the bolt moves rearward. When the forearm reaches the end of its rearward stroke, it is pushed in the opposite direction, straight forward. It pulls the bolt with it, until the bolt once again locks in the fully forward position. During its forward motion the bolt picks up a fresh shell from the magazine, pushes it into the chamber, and locks into place. The gun is then ready for another shot.

The best selling pump gun in history is the Remington Model 870, and the most famous is probably the Winchester Model 12. Winchester introduced the Model 1300 pump gun in 1964 as a replacement for the Model 12, and has produced it ever since. The 1300 was designed to be less expensive to manufacture than the classic Model 12. In recent years Browning has built a very nice pump gun named the BPS. These guns, along with the Mossberg 500 and its descendants, typify the American pump gun. In North America the pump was the most popular type of shotgun for a good part of the 20th century. Today, the autoloader has relegated the pump to second place, but the pump gun is still a strong seller.

Pump guns handle virtually identically to gas operated autoloaders. Because of their long receiver they tend to be muzzle heavy if equipped with a barrel the same length as typically found on a break action gun. A pump gun with a 24" barrel is about the same overall length as a double with 28" barrels, and handles well, but the short barrel increases muzzle blast. A 26" barrel gives a pump about the same overall length as a double with a 30" barrel. Repeaters like pumps and autoloaders usually handle best with 26" barrels, and a 28" barrel is a practical maximum for field use. A pump with a 30" barrel is about the same length as a double with a 34" barrel, which is pretty clumsy for most purposes.

Because of its relatively low price, reliability and multi-shot capacity the pump action shotgun has for many years been a favorite of both the military and the police when a short range, hard hitting weapon is called for. Short barreled "riot gun" type pumps have also become popular with urban residents, who may indeed be faced with a riot just beyond their front door, started on the flimsiest of pretexts.

The principal advantages of the pump gun are its relatively economical price, 3+ shot capacity, reliability and fast manually operated action. Although it is not as popular in competition as the over/under or autoloader, many trap and skeet shooters do use pump guns and a quick second shot for doubles can be achieved with practice. Reloaders who favor repeaters like pump guns because a fired shell can be ejected into the hand rather than onto the ground.

Pumps are particularly useful as field guns. They are not sensitive to ammunition and can be used with light or heavy loads, including reloads. A second barrel (longer or shorter) or multiple choke tubes can be purchased to increase the versatility of the gun at modest cost. A pump gun is usually the cheapest, and often the best, way for the occasional shotgun shooter to get into a repeater that is suitable for fast follow-up shots in the field.

The break action

Break action shotguns commonly come in single barrel and double barrel styles. Single barrel guns are usually either inexpensive beginner guns or special purpose trap (competition) guns. Double barrel guns have the barrels placed side-by-side or one superposed over the other (over/under). There are also a few three-barrel break action guns called "drillings." They usually have two side-by-side shotgun barrels over a single rifle barrel. Never very numerous, drillings have generally been made in Europe (especially Germany and Austria), but back around the turn of the 20th Century there was a Three Barrel Gun Company in the U.S. that made drillings.

Any break action gun is the safest of all shotgun types, since simply opening the action reveals whether it is loaded and renders it inoperable. It also makes it very easy to check for barrel obstructions. A break-action gun should not be closed until it is time to shoot.

Single barrel

Browning BT-99 trap gun. Illustration courtesy of Browning Arms.

The single barrel, break action shotgun is compact, light, handy, well balanced and effective. It is most commonly seen as a beginner's field gun. These are usually rather plain, inexpensive, mass produced guns stocked in hardwood or plastic, but seldom walnut. They often have an external, rebounding hammer that must be cocked before they can be fired. If equipped with an ejector a single barrel can be reloaded fairly rapidly.

The H&R Topper line of single barrel shotguns is typical of the breed, and perhaps the best known of the type today. Toppers are made in standard and youth sizes, and in 12, 16, 20, 28, and .410 gauges. A Deluxe model, in 12 gauge only, is available with screw-in chokes. There are also survival and deer hunter (slug gun) styles. New England Arms and Rossi also offer similar guns. In years past Sears, Western Auto, Montgomery Ward's and similar mass retailers sold about a zillion single barrel shotguns under various trade names. At one time Beretta, Winchester, Ithaca, Stevens and other well known manufacturers also built inexpensive single barrel shotguns. These were the shotguns with which generations of young Americans learned to shoot.

Another commonly encountered form of single barrel shotgun is the single barrel trap gun. These are top-flight competition guns, built by many of the famous double gun manufacturers. They are usually impeccably fitted and finished guns, typically featuring long 32 or 34 inch barrels with elevated ventilated ribs, beavertail fore-ends, and straight, Monte Carlo, or adjustable combs. The Browning BT-99 is perhaps the most famous of the breed, along with the legendary Ithaca Single Barrel Trap Gun.

Side-by-Side double barrel

Model 21 shotgun. Illustration courtesy of Connecticut Shotgun Mfg. Co.

The queen of shotguns is the elegant break action, side-by-side double barrel. No other design is as graceful or as aesthetically pleasing. Double guns are generally built on actions called "boxlock" (where the action parts--the locks--are carried inside of the action body), or "sidelock" (where the lockwork is attached to sideplates inletted into the wood behind the body of the action). Both types were invented in Britain.

World famous gun makers like Westley Richards, W. & C. Scott, Holland & Holland, Boss, Greener, and Purdy largely brought the modern hammerless side-by-side double gun to perfection in Britain in the latter part of the 19th century. These British gun makers worked out the design of and set the standards for double guns. Many of them are still building guns today. Very fine double guns (often called "best guns") are also made in the U.S., Italy, Spain, Germany, Belgium, France and perhaps other places. See my article Best Shotguns for more information about these exquisite doubles.

Virtually all double-barreled shotguns today are of the familiar break-open design, fundamentally similar to the break-action single shot guns with which most kids learn how to shoot. To open the action, a top lever (operating what is called a Scott spindle) is pressed to the side and the barrels pivot down around a hinge pin at the front of the action bar, opening the action and exposing the breech end of the barrels for loading or unloading.

Most of the better double guns have automatic ejectors, which eject fired shell cases when the action is opened, but merely extract unfired cases from the chamber for easy hand removal. Automatic ejectors were developed to reduce the time it takes to reload a double gun, for while reloading must be accomplished by hand, unloading can be made automatic.

Competition guns usually forgo this feature, since two shots are the limit in competition and fast reloading is unnecessary. Also, most competitive shooters are handloaders and they do not like to have their empty cases thrown on the ground.

To speed reloading even further some doubles feature assisted opening. This uses some form of spring action to help kick the barrels open when the top lever is operated. Of course, this spring must be compressed when the gun is closed, requiring more effort to close the gun.

Another feature incorporated into most British best guns is the "clean" breech face. This is also intended to speed reloading, by eliminating any projections from the face of the breech that could interfere with the removal or insertion of shells. Unlike most American doubles, which hold the action closed by means of some sort of bolt through an extension of the top rib, British (and also Spanish and Italian) guns typically use underbolts. These operate in a large central slot in the center of the action's watertable and lock into "bites" (deep notches) cut into "lumps" (lugs) placed centrally between the "flats" (underside) of the twin barrels, which fit into the slot in the action's watertable when it is closed. The Winchester Model 21, Ruger Gold Label, and Savage/Fox Model B American doubles use the British system and have a clean breech face.

Hand detachable locks are often seen on certain British and Spanish best grade sidelocks. This feature permits the shooter to remove the sideplates with their attendant mechanisms for easy cleaning without resorting to tools. The interior of such locks are usually highly polished or engine turned, and sometimes the parts are gold plated. This seems like a very classy feature to me.

Some double guns also have a single selective trigger (SST), which the user can set to fire either barrel first and which then automatically resets to fire the second barrel. This is a complicated type of trigger. Not all makers of best guns offer a SST and some of those that do probably shouldn't. Many are prone to "doubling" (firing both barrels at once) or "balking" (not firing the second barrel when the trigger is pulled). Most British and Spanish SST's have a bad reputation and the famous American Parker shotgun's SST was among the worst. I have found the Browning, SKB and Winchester SST's to be very reliable. The single trigger used in the old (and new) A. H. Fox guns also had a good reputation.

There are also single non-selective triggers, which always fire the same barrel first. Since they are much simpler than SST's these usually work fine. Lots of fine European live pigeon (competition) guns come with non-selective single triggers because the open choked barrel is always fired first and a single trigger is perhaps a hair faster than double triggers. The deluxe version of the Savage/Fox Model B double came with a non-selective single trigger.

Most double guns intended for hunting still have two separate triggers, one for each barrel. Two triggers are perhaps the easiest way for the hunter to select which barrel to fire first. This design is the simplest, most reliable and gives the shooter, in effect, two entirely separate actions so that a malfunction in one does not render the other inoperable. Most of the powerful double rifles chambered for big bore cartridges, guns designed for the largest and most dangerous game, are built with two triggers for exactly this reason.

As you can perhaps tell, much thought and mechanical ingenuity has gone into the evolution of the double gun. In fact, a best grade double is the most highly evolved of all firearms. It is also the only common action type that has no military application. The modern double gun is strictly a civilian innovation.

A side-by-side double gun offers an instant choice of two chokes, short overall length (compared to a repeater) for any given barrel length, a trim receiver for easy carrying, a very quick second shot, superior "between the hands" balance and generally the best handling available in a shotgun. It is also the most graceful of all guns. As noted above, any break action gun is the safest of all shotgun types, since simply opening the action reveals whether it is loaded and renders it inoperable. The typical double's sliding tang-mounted safety is quicker and easier to operate than the safety mounted in the trigger guard of most repeaters. A double is also extremely easy to check for barrel obstructions.

Over/Under double barrel

Browning Citori. Illustration courtesy of Browning Arms.

Like side-by-side double guns, O/U actions can be of either the boxlock or sidelock type. The redoubtable John Browning popularized the O/U in the 20th century with his innovative Superposed boxlock design. The company that bears his name is still one of the largest suppliers of the type. Other very well known gun companies offering Over/Under shotguns include Ruger, Savage, Remginton, and Beretta. Pietro Beretta of Italy, the oldest gunmaker in the world, builds both boxlock and sidelock O/U guns. Perazzi, also of Italy, is especially well known for their O/U competition models, as are Kreighoff of Germany and Kemen of Spain. Boss, Holland & Holland, and Purdy of London, England offer exquisite sidelock O/U game guns in addition to their famous side-by-side models. David McKay Brown of Glasgow, Scotland makes a superlative over/under as well as a "round action" side-by-side.

In the last 50 years, more titles and trophies in trap and skeet, including Olympic medals, have been won with O/U guns than with any other type. Despite its somewhat ungainly appearance (compared to a side-by-side), the O/U is the best selling double barreled gun in the world today. The stack barrel can be made to balance and swing just as well as a side-by-side, but its receiver is thicker so it doesn't look or feel quite as trim.

The O/U's advantages include a single sighting plane, short overall length, excellent balance, tang-mounted safety and the same safety advantages as other break action guns. Most O/U's today come with single triggers and offer a very fast second shot, faster than an autoloader since no time is wasted while the action cycles. The first of these advantages is why most shooters today prefer it to the side-by-side. The other advantages are why so many top-level competition shooters prefer the O/U to repeating shotguns, despite its much higher price.

About the only disadvantage to any quality double, whether side-by-side or over/under, is price. These superior guns are expensive to manufacture.

Measuring Up: Gauge vs. Caliber

Shotgun sizes have always been measured in a somewhat roundabout way. You would think that the "12" in a 12-gauge shotgun corresponds to some linear measurement -- maybe inches or centimeters. But that's not the case. "12-gauge" means you can make 12 lead balls, each of equal diameter to the gun barrel, out of 1 pound of lead. This originated in the days when you would buy lead by the pound to make your own ammo. The gauge told you how many rounds you could make for the gun from 1 pound of lead.

 smaller the gauge number, the wider the barrel. The largest shotgun is a 4-gauge. The .410 shotgun, the smallest, is an exception to the rule: It's actually a .410-caliber -- it has a .41-inch barrel diameter.

In general, the smaller the barrel diameter, the less "kick" or recoil the shooter feels from the gun. Many experts say that a 20-gauge shotgun is a good beginner's gun because it has relatively little recoil but fires more shot per shell than the smaller-diameter .410-caliber.

Shotgun Choke Types

• Full Choke
Most Dense Patterns

• Modified Choke
Tight Pattern Around 30 Inch Group at 40 Yards
About 60% of Pellets in Group

• Improved Choke
Tight Pattern Around 30 Inch Group at 40 Yards
About 70% of Pellets in Group
Used for Duck & Pheasant

• Cylinder Bore Choke
No Constriction
Pattern Around 30 Inch Group at 40 Yards
About 40% of Pellets in Group
Used by Law Enforcement & Home Defense
Used for Quail & Grouse

• Skeet Choke
Pattern Around 30 Inch Group at 25 Yards
About 50% of Pellets in Group
Most Effective for Shot Range
Used for Trap / Skeet / Competition Shooting

The shotgun choke determines the spread of the projectiles, to allow for a wide range of applications, with the same shotgun. All shotguns vary depending on brand, barrel, ammunition, and other factors.

The choke is basically a tapered constriction, which allows a controlled spread of projectiles. The shotgun patterns allow for a consistent spread. The chart displayed on the right can vary from firearm to firearm, and should be tested at the range for the desired constriction.

For best results shooting at your desired distance on a rest, will ensure that you have the proper group, and consistent results for the desired application. To determine what type of shotgun choke will work on your firearm, there is a useful link that will help determine the compatible chokes.

Early in the development of what we've come to know as the shotgun, hunters of ducks and other gamebirds used a variety of methods to sneak up on game "on the set" and fire a charge of rocks, and later lead pellets at single or entire flocks of birds before they could fly off. Heavy, cumbersome guns with primitive ignition systems made "shooting flying" impractical if not impossible.

It wasn't until the development of systems such as the flintlock in the 18th century, that the ability to fire at moving/flying game began to be a practical form of hunting.

Here in America, while we have romanticized notions about the Colt and the Winchester as the "Guns that won the West", the strongest argument can be made that the real tool of the pioneer was the shotgun. With a single gun, a frontiersman could feed himself and family, keep "critters" out of the vegetable garden plus do an adequate job of defense from hostiles. Loaded with a single ball, the shotgun at short range made a credible tool for deer and even larger game.

Over the last 200 years or so, shotguns which, with one modern exception, are classified in "gauges", have come in a variety of bore sizes from the massive 4 gauge (and larger) "punt guns" used in the last century by market hunters to fire at large flocks of "sitting ducks" to the diminutive .22 rimfire shot loads.

A gauge is a comparatively primitive form of measurement of the number of pure lead balls fitting the bore size that equal one pound. For example, a gun in which 12 lead balls that just fit down the barrel were to weigh one pound, is a 12 gauge. Said differently, the bigger the gauge number, the smaller the hole because it takes more balls to weigh one pound.

The one common exception to the gauge measurement is the .410 shotgun, which is actually a bore diameter designation.

Today, the commonly encountered shotgun ammunition sizes are (smallest to largest), the .410, 28, 20, 16, 12, and 10.

Before we outline the hunting applications of each gauge, there are two other points the novice must understand: Chokes, and shot pellet sizes.

Shot Sizes

The presumption is that the reader understands that the shotgun typically fires a load of small pellets rather than a single projectile (bullet) as does a rifle. Historically, these pellets have been made of lead, but due to evidence (subject to debate) that ducks in particular are ingesting lead pellets from the bottom of lakes and marshes and contracting lead poisoning, in the USA, waterfowl hunters are now required to use non-toxic shot (steel).

The novice looking over gauge and shot pellet size alternatives within each gauge needn't be bewildered. Speaking of lead shot only for the moment, one needs only to remember that just the opposite as with gauge sizes, the bigger the number (shot size) the smaller the size of the individual pellets. Typically, larger pellets are used for larger quarry.

The smallest pellet size normally used for hunting is the size 8, typically used for game the size of quail or dove. Size 7 1/2 or 6 are used for many upland species such as grouse or pheasants. Size 5 and 4 are often recommended for pheasants shot at greater distance (larger pellets, because they are heavier, retain their velocity better and so killing power over distance is greater than the smaller sizes), where lead is legal, #4s or 5s are commonly used for ducks, with lead 2s or the still larger BB size used for the largest of birds such as Canada geese.

Still occasionally encountered, are shotgun shells loaded with "buck shot", so called because the pellets are large enough to take game like deer. These sizes range from #4 buck to the largest size #00, referred to as "double aught buck". (I mention here that there are single projectile shotgun loads, typically referred to as slugs, or rifled slugs that are far more efficient on deer sized game than buck shot.)

Because "steel shot" (actually an iron alloy) is much less heavy than lead, larger pellets are needed to provide the same individual pellet energy. As a general rule, duck hunters who might have used lead 6's are counseled to move up two shot sizes (#4) when switching to steel. Because long range duck and goose hunters needed steel loads with sufficient pellet energy, new steel sizes that fit between lead BB and #4 buck have appeared with letter designations such as T and F.

Chokes

The earliest shotgunners quickly realized that the moment a charge of shot left the barrel, the individual pellets colliding with each other and meeting wind resistance began to disburse, and after only 20-30 yards, killing power was dramatically reduced because the pellets had spread so much that too few hit the target. A solution was to use larger pellets so fewer need to connect, but this is partly offset because bigger & heavier pellets meant fewer of them can fit in the shell casing in the first place.

Some credit an American market hunter in the 19th century named Fred Kimball with the idea of constricting (choking down) the bore of the shotgun to better focus the pellets just as the nozzle of a garden hose can be made to shoot a stream instead of a spray.

Typically, shotgun chokes are referred to as full (the most constriction), modified (medium), improved cylinder (a small amount), and cylinder (no constriction). You will also occasionally encounter nuance sizes such as extra-full, skeet, or improved-modified.

The traditional British designations are full, half (modified), quarter (improved cylinder), and cylinder.

On first learning about how choke boring extends the killing range of a shotgun from less than 30 yards (cyl. bore) to 60 yards or more (full choke), the reader might logically ask why any hunter would use anything but the tightest choke available. There are two reasons. First, the spread, or pattern of the shot load over a larger area can make hitting a flying bird easier because it allows for some aiming error. Second, a bird shot at close range with a tightly choked gun can be hit by too many pellets, destroying its edibility.

Hunters who's quarry is typically shot at closer range are counseled to use a more open choke such as improved cylinder; at the longest distances, full; with modified recommended as a more all around compromise.

While there have been in times past, a number of adjustable choke devices marketed, a hunter wishing greater versatility was required to either have multiple guns with different choked barrels, or a gun with interchangeable barrels.

In the last few years, guns with changeable "screw in" chokes have become common; greatly increasing versatility for the one gun hunter.

The Gauges

There is considerable overlap in the suitability of shotgun gauges for various game. For example, one can easily find or handload 1 ounce shot charges in the 28, 20, 16 and 12 gauge. So what gauge to use for which game is far from a black and white decision. One hunter might want maximum versatility, while another might focus on only one type of hunting. Whereas one duck and goose hunter might be well served with a heavier 12 or 10 gauge, but another who also hunts ruffed grouse where a lighter 20 gauge is a better choice might opt to also duck hunt with the same 20 gauge gun.

There is no intention below to make absolute statements about what is best. Rather these comments are to be guidelines for the novice. As always, the hunter is encouraged to ask for additional advice and make his or her own informed decisions.

Shotgun science is also so inexact to be referred to more as art than science by many, with nearly as many exceptions to the rules, than rules. Another example: Will a one ounce shot charge from a 20 gauge be exactly as effective as one from a 12? No. In general, because the 20 has a smaller bore, the shot exits the barrel in a longer and more strung out mass (called a shot string) than a 12. Yet if the 20 user was firing ammo with high quality shot versus the 12 gauge using inexpensive promotional loads, the 20 might actually be more effective, and in either case, since it requires only a few of the hundreds of pellets in that ounce to hit and bring down the quarry, the hunter might find no practical difference between the two. See what I mean?

.410 Bore

The smallest of the commonly encountered shotgun sizes, the four-ten is suitable for game such as rabbits, squirrels and some smaller close range bird hunting. Because four-ten guns tend to be lighter weight and the small sized cartridge generates less recoil or "kick", it is often recommended as a beginners gun with which to learn shooting fundamentals. However, many disagree with this approach citing that the very small shot charge makes effective hitting of the target more difficult and can discourage the beginner. This writer tends to agree, and recommends that the beginner start with a larger gauge with the four-ten reserved for specialty applications or for use of experts.

.410 ammunition comes in 2 1/2 inch and 3" lengths, with nearly all guns capable of firing both. The 3" holds more shot and is therefore a better hunting choice.

28 Gauge

Still comparatively uncommon, the 28 "kicks like a .410 and hits like a 20". For years, the only reason the gauge did not completely disappear was because of a skeet shooting application. It is the smallest gauge many feel practical for bird hunting, and in a trim and fast handling shotgun is a delight to use on such game as quail. Drawbacks are limited availability of ammo, an inadequacy at longer ranges, and insufficient shell capacity to handle larger shot, including steel.

20 Gauge

Very popular, the 20 is an excellent choice for many types of hunting. Most guns are light enough to not pose a long distance carrying problem, and with the 20 gauge 3" magnum, it approaches the 12 in effectiveness. For any hunter whose quarry is other than deer, ducks, geese or turkey (and it can suffice in these applications), the 20 should be a strong consideration. It is highly recommended as a first gun (with light loads if recoil is a problem).

16 Gauge

Once very popular, and with periodic surges in popularity, the 16 remains in a back seat position to both the 20 and the 12. Proponents will argue that it throws better patterns than the 20, and equals the 12 in game getting power. There once was more truth to this argument than today. With advances in shotshell technology more devoted to the 12 and 20 than the 16, the 20 gauge now equals or surpasses the 16. When it became impractical for American manufacturers to build guns in three frame sizes, the 16's (after being made for a time on 12 gauge frames) lost favor. If a hunter wanted power, he bought a 12. If he wanted light weight, he bought a 20. Both ammo and reloading components are more difficult to find, and while I personally intend to keep my one remaining 16; for practical purposes it cannot get the highest of recommendations.

12 Gauge

By way of illustration of the comparative popularity of the 12 gauge, my own gun vault contains 10 shotguns at present. One 28, one 20, one 16 and seven 12 gauges. The 12 is far and away the most versatile and most practical of all. In a light gun with light charges it makes an excellent short range and fast handling "bird gun" for such game as quail and grouse, and at the other end of the spectrum, the 12 gauge magnum 3 inch is the most popular choice for duck, geese and turkey.

Shopping today only for an "upland game" gun, you might opt for a light 20. If looking just for a heavy duck and goose model, you might consider the 10 (there are now a few guns being chambered for a 3 1/2 inch 12 gauge super magnum); but for overall versatility, the 12 is never a bad choice.

10 Gauge

In times past, if a hunter was a duck and goose specialist, the big 10 was the gun to have (U.S. laws in the 1920's outlawed gauges bigger than 10 for waterfowl use.). Over time, the 12 gauge 3 inch magnum surpassed the 10 with shell technology and less massive guns. But with the requirement for less efficient steel shot, bigger again became better (in theory), and the 10 has seen an upswing in popularity.

There remains some debate as to the practical advantages of the 10 over the 12 in the ability to smoothly swing a bigger gun and actually hit a long range flying target as well as actual delivery of a killing pattern any further out than the 12 can do. If you must have the biggest, this is it, but for the beginner or any hunter with the intent to pursue anything other than long range ducks and geese, the 10 is not the best choice.

What kind of gun (action type) do I buy?

Shotguns come as single shots, a few bolt actions, slide actions (pumps), semi-automatics, and double barrels (either side by side or over and unders).

The single shots and bolt actions, while having some hunting utility, are quickly dismissed as no situation where they would be a first choice is recognized.

Both the pump and the semi auto have good utilitarian applications, with this writer giving the slight edge to the pump. While the "automatic" has a slight edge in rapidity of fire, and often less perceived recoil, accurate followup shots, with practice, are virtually as quick with the pump. All currently manufactured pumps, I believe, are now chambered for at least the 3" magnum (12 and 20) which means they will function with the standard length ammunition as well. The same cannot be said for all models of semi-automatic.

While it is also true that the auto and the pump have a ammunition capacity of typically 5 shots, all models are now shipped with a magazine plug (here in America) limiting capacity to three (a waterfowl hunting restriction). Three shots is sufficient for nearly all situations, and some countries further restrict capacity to two, negating any advantage (other than cost) that these guns have over the double barreled models.

Perhaps the epitome of sporting arms, the classic side by side double barrel has long been out of mainstream favor in the USA. The reasons are several including the perception of comparative fragility, the high cost of manufacture, and the belief that looking over two barrels is a less precise method of aiming (ok, pointing).

Without a physics discussion, it is true that getting two barrels affixed side by side to shoot to the same point of aim is a labor intensive and so expensive procedure. The other reasons, are debatable.

Over and under models are a different matter. With many, but not all, of the dynamic handling characteristics of a quality SxS, but still more expensive than the pumps or automatics; these guns are quite popular.

There are a number of guns available in a range of features and quality, but if forced to make recommendations, I'd suggest:

For the one gun hunter on a budget, but desiring maximum versatility:

Remington 870 12 gauge, pump action, 3 inch chamber, screw in chokes, 26 inch barrel if possible- 28 inch ok. If I wanted to add deer hunting, special added barrels with rifle sights are available.

Were duck, geese, turkey and deer, not a consideration, the same gun is available in 20 gauge.

An economy model of the 870, called the Express can be had for just over $200.

(Note: Remington has said they will no longer honor any warranty if the shooter converts the safety to left handed operation and so after market left hand safeties are no longer available. There is an 870 made especially for left handers)

For those desiring a semi-automatic, look at the Remington 11-87 (12 gauge only. Hunting models have 3 inch chambers, target models do not.)

In over and unders, the Ruger Red Label is a good value, but a bit heavy for some tastes. It is available in 12 and 20. The Browning Citori is also an excellent choice and comes in a variety of configurations.

As to currently available side by sides, there are none either made or imported that are priced under $1000 to which I can give endorsement.

The 20-gauge shotgun, particularly in the gas-operated semiautomatic version, seems to be one of the best-kept secrets in the firearms world. About the only thing it's not very good for anymore, since heavy lead shot was legally forbidden for waterfowl hunting, is the harvesting of high-flying ducks and geese. In big bear country, I might also prefer the bigger slugs of a 12-gauge.

The 20-gauge will always "kick" less than the 12, and it will handle better and faster on quick-moving upland birds. With a buckshot load, the standard 20-gauge shell will fire 20 pellets of #3 buckshot (approximately .25 caliber), which will penetrate to about the same depth at about the same pattern width as the standard 12-gauge "urban load" of #4 buckshot, which comprises 27 pellets (about .23 caliber). The wound paths will be about the same depth and width, and the only difference will be how finely the macerated tissue has been chopped by the projectile paths. "Only the Medical Examiner will know for sure," and then only when he counts the little lead balls recovered from the body, or the white dots on the X-ray of the corpse.

The 20-gauge shotgun. It is offered here for your consideration for the simple reason that it has compelling logic and a strong field history going for it.

12 Gauge Uses

As has been mentioned, the 12 gauge is used in a wide variety of hunting — from dove to ducks, to deer to turkey hunting. The 12 gauge makes an excellent self defense weapon, which accounts for police departments across the country using 12 gauge slug and buckshot rounds — primarily because of this reasoning. In terms of target shooting, the 12 gauge dominates both trap shooting and sporting clays, both sports which do not give consideration to any other gauge. Skeet shooting also holds its own with many 12 gauges being shot.

The 12 gauge dominates the shotgun world because of its availability, cost and selection. For any of its intended purposes, it shines the brightest.

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